Day 8 -Tuesday 29th July.

Stover Strand to Ivendorf/Travemunde
72.2 miles.

The day started at 08.00 with a 20 mile sprint (ie. Over 11 mph) along the Elbe to Lauenburg. Derek doesn't like this place as he is fed up of navigating through places with no signs. For future reference, if at any time he is feeling low, please mention Lauenburg, it will cheer him up no end. However we did eventually find the Elbe to Lubeck Canal which consisted of 40 miles of schaden (crap) Radweg.

There were no wayside bars or cafes for refreshments and to add insult to injury we yet again faced a stiff NE. wind. By doing 10 mile bursts we finally trundled into Lubeck. Derek insisted on a cultural tour so after visiting the Holstentor (built in 1466) and the Rathaus we sat in the town hall square drinking a large apfelschorle followed by an Eisschokolade. We then visited the Marienkirche where Derek met a close friend of his.

 This twin-towered basilica is the brick modification of a Neoclassical French Cathedral and boasts the highest vaulted brick ceiling in the world.

Then came a final trip across town to visit the Dom before putting the sun behind us and setting off in a northerly direction. Miraculously we ended up on the Travemunde Radweg.
When we came to the tunnel under the river,in typical German fashion they provided a free shuttle bus with trailer for bikes to transport us to the other side.

Then a final few miles brought us to our campsite in Ivendorf (via a visit to Lidl for supplies). Usual routine. Today's beer was Radeberger Pilsner.

Day 7 - Monday 28th July.

Mountain Stage
Wilstedt to Stove

Very misty and murky when we got up. Had to wipe down the tents and bikes. On the road by 08.15. Following the Bremen to Hamburg Radweg. Decided to take a short cut - bad decision! Ended up in the middle of a forest lost and unable to cycle. Eventually cut our losses (again) and got back on the route.
Unfortunately the route had its own challenges. By far the worst was a km stretch of cobbles obviously laid in the middle ages.We breathed a sigh of relief when we reached the rough forest track over the hills.
We were able to stop for lunch at 2.15 and rest our battered bodies - on a bench in the shade. The mountain stage being over we descended into Harburg/ Hamburg.Another city with its route finding problems but we eventually found our way to the south bank of the River Elbe where we motored along for 25km on a fantastic new cycle-way.

Our intended campsite was none existent which meant dragging our weary bodies a further 5 miles to Stove Strand - possibly the largest campsite in Germany.

 Same old routine. Pitched tents on the bank of the Elbe,showered, then beer of the day - Benedictiner Weissbier.

Day 6 - Sunday 27th July

Halfstede to Wilstedt
70.6 miles

After a dry night we were packed up and away by 07.45 (yet again we needed to make up time, I'll tell Derek later). Made good progress to Oldenburg. Having successfully navigated us into Oldenburg, Derek continued to lead us out again only to be overuled by me. I didn't admit I was wrong until Derek noticed we were heading due north. I thought I saw a thin smug smile on his face. The route was corrected by diverting through Wusting where redemption was at hand as we stumbled on a Bakkerei. Three km after Wusting Derek's world imploded as he suddenly realised he no longer had his hearing aid. (Before leaving the bakery he had put sun cream on and taken the hearing aid out carefully placing it on top of his saddlebag). Slowly and gloomily we retraced our route, searching, but to no avail. We were just giving it up as a bad job when he noticed it in the middle of the road. With no thought to his own safety he threw himself in front of oncoming traffic to rescue it. Miraculously it still worked.
After all this excitement we soldiered on into the centre of Bremen for lunch (45 miles). We revisited the Dom Square before moving on.

We now followed the Bremen to Hamburg Radweg with a more detailed route map. Temperature soared as we made excellent progress with, for the first time, the wind behind. An ice cream stop at Fischerhude was most welcome.

Our final ten miles took us to our present campsite at Wilstedt. The usual routine quickly saw the tents up, us showered and then sampling the beer of the day. (Haake Beck).

Day 5 - Saturday 26th July

REST DAY
Wedderveer to Halfstede
57.6 miles

Heavy rain through the night, (not that Derek heard it), meant a damp start. Packed up wet gear then we were greeted with breakfast of two Brotchen and two boiled eggs. Welcome though this was it meant a later start, 8.45. Very gloomy and damp as we wended our way along little white roads. Eventually crossed the border into Germany.

My spirits lifted, it was like being home (Derek wishes he was at home too!). Stopped at Bunde for our first hot chocolate of the trip and cake. Legs tired today as the afternoon took us through pretty villages and countryside.
In general we have been cycling on really good surfaces but today after our road side lunch break - sardines and one Brotchen between us - we came upon the 'sandpit road'. A mad Burgermeister had been inspired to fill in the potholes with tons of loose sand. Cycling heaven!
Our planned stop at Oldenburg looked a long way so we decided to sample the camping by the Zwischenahner Meer.
We were greeted by the proprietor who proceeded to tell us he didn't serve food, didn't have wifi, didn't give receipts and quite honestly didn't give a damp. We didn't have a beer in his bar.
We Cycled 2km to the Goldener Adler for our beer of the day (Kong Pilsner) and a delicious meal.

A day free of rain but the clouds were building as we returned to camp.

Day 4 - Friday 25th July

Holwerd to Wedderveer
77.3 miles

After yesterday's gruelling trip we didn't exactly appreciate the caroling of the local church bells throughout the night. However
woke up and the flag was limp (campsite flag that is!) - this was joyous news and raised our hopes of an easier day's cycling.
On the road by 08.15 but our optimism was soon dashed as the wind slowly strengthened and clouds built up. Followed North Sea coastal route to Lauersoog where the rain started. Derek not too impressed by my attempt to get us back on schedule. Flashing glimpses of egrets, lapwing, tern and marsh harrier did not improve his humour. Managed a brief stop for windmill picture to prove we are in Holland.

  

Having covered 41 miles by 12.15, I succumbed to pressure to stop so a quiet sandwich break was had in Groningen.

Route finding out of Groningen proved difficult but eventually we were on our way into a stiff N.E. wind again. Lightening flashes and threatening clouds finally developed into a thunderstorm forcing us to take shelter next to a bemused Dutchman.

Cycled through Winschoten looking for campsite which we didn't find. However we did find two Dutch ladies who looked after us and escorted us to a Natuurkampeerterrein. This was like camping in somebodies huge back garden but with shower facilities and a kitchen.

Unfortunately no beer of the day and we had to cook (ie reconstitute) chicken? curry.

We liked Holland a little bit more today despite the length of the ride.

Thursday 24th July

Day 3 - Stroe to Holwerd - 66.8 miles

Noooo... The wind is still blowing and the halyards are rattling.
I must remember to put my glasses on first thing in the morning when looking at the time. This morning got up, showered, and woke Derek. He was none too pleased as it was only 06.05! His humour improved after a 45 minute gap and a beautiful prepared cup of tea.

At least we were on the road by 07.45, heading towards the Afluitsdijk and our worst nightmare. A beautiful day, perfect smooth cycle track and a horrendous wind ensured a 9 mph relentless slog. This remained the pattern for the whole day.

After taking over 2 hours to cross the dyke we eventually arrived in Harlingen where coffee/tea and cake were gratefully consumed. Suitably refreshed we set forth on the next 37 miles of purgatory. No kidding! Sometimes we were reduced to 6 mph. Eventually, exhausted we cut our losses and stopped 15 miles before our planned destination opting for the delights of the campsite at Holwerd. Two beers and smoked sausages (to replenish the salt) were placed on the reception counter by the proprietor as we signed in.
We eventually strolled down to De Gouden Klok where we were treated to a delicious meat loaf voted best in the Netherlands in 2012 together with today's beer of the day ( (Wieckse Witte - a white beer).

Day 2 - Wednesday 23rd July

Ijmuiden to Den Oever/Stroe
63.3 miles
Yesterday's third beer of the day (John Smith's Smooth) meant we woke rather the worse for wear. However, a double espresso and Derek's full English breakfast soon revived us. We disembarked at 10am and soon started cycling into a stiff NE wind which continued and strengthened as the day progressed. Full sun and a temperature of over 25 degrees also added to the discomfort. Lunch at Bergen am See consisted of the local delicacy of Kibbeling (a type of fried fish).

Then onwards into the gale, through the dunes, relentlessly heading NE. After 40 miles we collapsed onto a Bloemenhut table and devoured all four of our yoghurts.

With liquid refreshments running low we eventually stopped again 5 miles short of Den Oever for a soft drink. We struggled to Den Oever only to find the campsite closed.
Weeping profusely we retraced our steps for three miles to reach the campsite of Stroe. At least the wind blew us back!
Showered and refreshed we sampled the local bar and over our evening meal were joined by Mattheus (extremely drunk Dutch man) and Florian (only slightly drunk but joint smoking German). Mattheus continued to ply us with beer whilst effing his way through the evening's conversation. His young daughter should have a splendid and varied vocabulary when she returns to school.
We eventually escaped our hosts and retired a little worse for wear and dreading the battle against the elements tomorrow as we attempt to cross the Afluitsdijk.

Day 1 - Tuesday 22nd July.

Skelton/Wigton to Newcastle ferry port.
24.9 miles

Off we go!

Fantastic weather for Le Grand Depart. Not a cloud in the sky as the rendezvous at Carlisle station went to plan. God bless Northern Rail for allowing the transportation of two bikes and riders to Newcastle.

On the train met ex pupil from 40 years ago. She said I hadn't changed a bit! Lunch on the Quay side included our first beer of the day (Marston's EPA). 

Thus lubricated, the next 9 miles to the ferry terminal went by in a flash.

After two hours of baking in the sun finally boarded, found cabin, booked meal for 20.45 and then got stuck into our second beer of the day (Grolsch).

Countdown - Monday 21st July

Tomorrow is the great day. Route planning and packing are all but done.
Derek will set off from Wigton and I'll set off from Skelton and we'll hopefully rendezvous at 10 am outside Carlisle station.
Our route to Copenhagen starts with a train journey to Newcastle, short cycle to the ferry terminal and overnight trip to Ijmuiden. From there we cycle north through Holland and Germany eventually reaching Putgarten on the Baltic coast. A short ferry trip takes us to Denmark and eventually our destination. Overall we expect to cover about 1000km cycling roughly 100km a day.
The planned route takes us through vast areas of little cultural interest so Derek should hopefully be able to concentrate solely on his cycling.