The journey home

Copenhagen to Flensburg

We booked our rail tickets to Flensburg the day we arrived in Copenhagen. There were problems however because for the last month there have been engineering works on that line and bikes could not be transported on the replacement buses. We were assured that the work would finish at 5pm on Monday 4th August. Our train would leave at 6.30.
When the train arrived for boarding there was no carriage for bikes and the train was only going to Esbjerg. As we were running up and down the platform to find our carriage we were forced to get on by the guard.
Whilst travelling on the train the conductor checking our tickets informed us that the work had overrun! Change at Kolding but not sure if the bikes could go. Aaargh. This train linked with the night train to Copenhagen.
Things didn't look good. But worse was to come. The conductor suddenly approached us and told us to get off the train now at Odense and catch the next train to Fredericia which leaves platform 5 in 4 minutes! In Fredericia there will be transport for us. We caught the train and there was indeed a 60 seater coach with trailer just for Derek and I!

Magnificent Danish Rail service.
We duly reached Flensburg, caught the night train with 12 minutes to spare and eventually made it home.

Highlight of our journey - Roskilde and the History Museet in Copenhagen.

Lowlight - The NE wind, Lauenburg and the 40 mile track alongside the Elbe to Lubeck Canal.

Monday 4th August

Last day + 2,3 and 4
Copenhagen to Carlisle.

This is It folks, our last blog covering the next 3 days!
Tremendous thunderstorm during the night and woke up to heavy rain. Packed bags, checked out and planned walk in the rain to visit Vor Frelsers Kirke.  Exciting experience at first as we walked down main shopping street again, but this time with a purpose. I needed an umbrella.

 Mission accomplished - Derek chose the cagoule and wet trousers option - arrived at the church to find the spiral tower closed owing to bad weather.

We did however enjoy the huge ornate 17th century organ supported by two elephants (Dead).

Back to hotel before we leave for our final meal ( as long as it costs less than our remaining 205 kroner) and our journey home.
We catch the train at 18.35 and arrive in Amsterdam tomorrow at 10.30.
Then quick visit to Rijksmuseum followed by bike ride to Ijmuiden to catch the Newcastle Ferry. Final train to Carlisle, shake hands, then find our own way home.

Day - 13 Sunday 3rd August

Final Day +1
Copenhagen

After enduring a minimum temperature of 21 degrees throughout the night Derek woke two stone lighter and desperate for a cold shower. A leisurely breakfast was taken in the hotel where we witnessed the bloke on the table next to us stuffing his rucksack with enough food for a coach party.

Free entry on a Sunday ensured a morning visit to the Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek Sculpture Museum. It opened at 11 so we walked to the town hall square where we saw a statue of Hans Christian Anderson.

We were second into the museum which housed an incredible collection of ancient and modern sculptures.

Following this we went to the National Museet where we were astounded by the vast collection of prehistoric Danish artefacts. The majority of which had been preserved in bogs.
Then we made our way down the famous pedestrianised shopping street (boring) to Nyhavn where we parted with yet another shed load of money for an hour's boat trip round the harbour and canals.

A long hot walk back to the hotel was followed by cold shower. Derek then decided at 18.05 that he wanted to find 'the bridge' linking Copenhagen to Malo.  With no map, no directions and only a finger pointing idea of where it was, we set of 'enthusiastically'.
5.1 miles later we arrived at Copenhagen Strand from where we observed a splendid but distant view of said bridge.

I am still trying to work out how Derek managed to make the journey back last 8 miles! However we did have splendid stop beside river for pizza and beer. A final beer in the hotel lobby lubricated our brains enough to write this blog.

Day 12 - Saturday 2nd August.

Final Day (apart from the last 4 days)
Roskilde to Copenhagen
23.8 miles (+9.3)

Woke up to a glorious, sunny and dry morning. Leisurely start as we only had 20+ miles to complete our trip. Made use of the excellent campsite facilities by making coffee and preparing breakfast in the kitchen. Finally on the way by 8.45 and Derek led us,straight as a die along the Roskilde to Copenhagen dual carriageway to the steps of the Central Station.
That completed our journey of 726 miles door to door.
We sorted out our train tickets for Monday's trip to Flensburg which despite a few anxious moments we are able to make entirely by train.
Our hotel ( Cabinn) was easily located and check in was accomplished although at first our room was only booked for one person. Once sorted out we viewed the room which true to the hotels name was just a cabin, almost identical to cabin on our ferry from Newcastle apart from the windows. The room does have beds though and towels that dry you.

Parked bikes and bags at the hotel and went for an exploratory walk culminating in a small bar where we had our beer of the day - Tuborg.

We showered and changed then went for 9.3 mile bike tour of the city where we had experience of:

1. Ny Carlsberg Glyptotec

2. Slotsholme (Parliament)

3. Nyhavn

4. Borsen

5.Kongens Nytorv

6 Amalienborg (Royal Palace)

7. Kastellet

8.National Museet

9. Den Lille Havfrue (Mermaid)

Derek is a happy man.

All he has to do now is climb up a 6ft ladder to the top bunk close to the ceiling where the temperature will be hotter than the 28 degrees it currently is outside. He can lie all night in his personal sauna.

Day 11 - Friday 1st August

Praesto to Roskilde
57 miles

Disaster. Another puncture but this time in my mattress so no sleep. Got up at 05.45 and by making as much noise as I could, successfully woke Derek. Pedals turning by 07.15. Followed route 56 to Koge through a magical mystery land undulating meadows with hares and deer constantly crossing our path. 34 miles later, at Koge, stopped for refreshments. While standing by a statue of Frederick VII we were accosted by the local historian and given a potted and idiosyncratic version of Danish history.
Set off again but were diverted from the track into a dead end. We eventually untangled the mess and got back on our route to Roskilde. On arrival headed straight for the Viking Ship Museum and handed over shed loads of money for admission. Lunch consisted of viking flat bread. This is where archaeologists had discovered 9 viking ships that had been deliberately sunk to block the harbour in case of attack. Pretty interesting stuff.

Derek insisted on dragging me up hill to town for yet more culture. This the Dom which I must admit was a magnificent building.

 Our peaceful visit viewing 35 royal tombs was somewhat shattered by a demented organist.
A swift return down the hill then round the bay brought us to the campsite of the trip at Vigen Strand. Pitched the tents a few metres from the sea with a great view across the bay  to Roskilde.

 Made use of outstanding facilities to shower then beer of the day which was - Sempe Ardens Wiener.

Day 10 Thursday 31st July

Puttgarden to Praesto
54 miles

In true Cavendish style, on the morning sprint to the toilet block, Derek came to grief in the gravel trap. Injuries sustained won't keep him out of the tour, but have denied him yet another stage win and ensured that I retained the yellow jumper.

 Arrived at the ferry with medical support   (Savlon) to witness amazing roll on, roll-off system. 15 minutes turn around for a fair sized ferry, which incidentally also takes high speed train as we learnt to our cost later. We were the only cyclists. We had to park our bikes on their stands - nowhere to strap them to - in front of a double trailer HGV.

We were allowed to disembark first but were told to pull off to the side until all the vehicles were away. We saw what we thought was the ferry guy waving us on and set off into the path of the boarding intercity train which sounded its horn at us. Having survived this experience we set out on Danish route 7.

Glory be! For the first time this trip we had a following wind and fairly sped along to Sakskoving where we had a sandwich break and our first encounter with the Danish cost of living.
Onwards we sped crossing an enormous but somewhat dilapidated bridge across the water to Vordingborg. Here whilst stopped at traffic lights our personal guides picked us up (an elderly couple who stopped behind us) and escorted us into town and gave us directions to route 56.
Before moving on we had time for yet another cultural experience. The second of the trip after Lubeck. We visited Vordingborg Castle the seat of powerful kings in the middle ages such as Valdemar the Victorious. He resided in the ' Goose Tower' which still stands and is the best medieval tower in the whole of Scandinavia.

Cycled on looking for campsite which we found at (Hey) Praesto. On enquiring whether they had wifi the old geezer running the spot said yes. We duly signed in and paid. I asked for the code and he informed us he didn't have wifi. B-----d! Hence late blog. Compensations were first use of camping seats and beer from the supermarket to drink while sitting in them for a relaxing two hours. I must be going soft!

Beer of the day - Svaneke Blonde. (Brewed in Bryghus (or should that be Brighouse?)

Day 9 Wednesday 30th July

Ivendorf to Putgarten
74 miles

We woke wondering whether there would be more self inflicted torture to endure. We were not disappointed. It was good to get a view of the Baltic.

(Smart alec Derek says it's our second view, the first being in Newcastle).
The bikes coped well with the Olympic mountain bike course over the cliffs beyond Travemunde. (NB. The Ostsee Coastal Route isn't flat, isn't paved or tarmac, isn't adequately signed and is not necessarily dry.

After cycling for two hours in the rain - and did we mention the constant head wind?- it brightened and we stopped for lunch. Derek dipped his toes in the Ostsee (Baltic). I would have done but for the stretch of sand between me and the water.

Derek of course cycled with sand in his shoes for the rest of the day.
We then stuck in and cycled against the elements to the island of Fehmarn.

Still following no signs on Ostsee route we were 5 miles short of Puttgarden when for the first time I started to fall behind Derek and realised that I was cycling on the rims of my front wheel. Derek, blissfully unaware of this event, disappeared although he did eventually come back in time to take a picture of the roadside repair.

I did get my own back when on reaching the campsite at Puttgarden I gave him back his once pristine but now folded and shredded map.
By now you know the routine......

Wolters Pilsener

Day 8 -Tuesday 29th July.

Stover Strand to Ivendorf/Travemunde
72.2 miles.

The day started at 08.00 with a 20 mile sprint (ie. Over 11 mph) along the Elbe to Lauenburg. Derek doesn't like this place as he is fed up of navigating through places with no signs. For future reference, if at any time he is feeling low, please mention Lauenburg, it will cheer him up no end. However we did eventually find the Elbe to Lubeck Canal which consisted of 40 miles of schaden (crap) Radweg.

There were no wayside bars or cafes for refreshments and to add insult to injury we yet again faced a stiff NE. wind. By doing 10 mile bursts we finally trundled into Lubeck. Derek insisted on a cultural tour so after visiting the Holstentor (built in 1466) and the Rathaus we sat in the town hall square drinking a large apfelschorle followed by an Eisschokolade. We then visited the Marienkirche where Derek met a close friend of his.

 This twin-towered basilica is the brick modification of a Neoclassical French Cathedral and boasts the highest vaulted brick ceiling in the world.

Then came a final trip across town to visit the Dom before putting the sun behind us and setting off in a northerly direction. Miraculously we ended up on the Travemunde Radweg.
When we came to the tunnel under the river,in typical German fashion they provided a free shuttle bus with trailer for bikes to transport us to the other side.

Then a final few miles brought us to our campsite in Ivendorf (via a visit to Lidl for supplies). Usual routine. Today's beer was Radeberger Pilsner.

Day 7 - Monday 28th July.

Mountain Stage
Wilstedt to Stove

Very misty and murky when we got up. Had to wipe down the tents and bikes. On the road by 08.15. Following the Bremen to Hamburg Radweg. Decided to take a short cut - bad decision! Ended up in the middle of a forest lost and unable to cycle. Eventually cut our losses (again) and got back on the route.
Unfortunately the route had its own challenges. By far the worst was a km stretch of cobbles obviously laid in the middle ages.We breathed a sigh of relief when we reached the rough forest track over the hills.
We were able to stop for lunch at 2.15 and rest our battered bodies - on a bench in the shade. The mountain stage being over we descended into Harburg/ Hamburg.Another city with its route finding problems but we eventually found our way to the south bank of the River Elbe where we motored along for 25km on a fantastic new cycle-way.

Our intended campsite was none existent which meant dragging our weary bodies a further 5 miles to Stove Strand - possibly the largest campsite in Germany.

 Same old routine. Pitched tents on the bank of the Elbe,showered, then beer of the day - Benedictiner Weissbier.

Day 6 - Sunday 27th July

Halfstede to Wilstedt
70.6 miles

After a dry night we were packed up and away by 07.45 (yet again we needed to make up time, I'll tell Derek later). Made good progress to Oldenburg. Having successfully navigated us into Oldenburg, Derek continued to lead us out again only to be overuled by me. I didn't admit I was wrong until Derek noticed we were heading due north. I thought I saw a thin smug smile on his face. The route was corrected by diverting through Wusting where redemption was at hand as we stumbled on a Bakkerei. Three km after Wusting Derek's world imploded as he suddenly realised he no longer had his hearing aid. (Before leaving the bakery he had put sun cream on and taken the hearing aid out carefully placing it on top of his saddlebag). Slowly and gloomily we retraced our route, searching, but to no avail. We were just giving it up as a bad job when he noticed it in the middle of the road. With no thought to his own safety he threw himself in front of oncoming traffic to rescue it. Miraculously it still worked.
After all this excitement we soldiered on into the centre of Bremen for lunch (45 miles). We revisited the Dom Square before moving on.

We now followed the Bremen to Hamburg Radweg with a more detailed route map. Temperature soared as we made excellent progress with, for the first time, the wind behind. An ice cream stop at Fischerhude was most welcome.

Our final ten miles took us to our present campsite at Wilstedt. The usual routine quickly saw the tents up, us showered and then sampling the beer of the day. (Haake Beck).

Day 5 - Saturday 26th July

REST DAY
Wedderveer to Halfstede
57.6 miles

Heavy rain through the night, (not that Derek heard it), meant a damp start. Packed up wet gear then we were greeted with breakfast of two Brotchen and two boiled eggs. Welcome though this was it meant a later start, 8.45. Very gloomy and damp as we wended our way along little white roads. Eventually crossed the border into Germany.

My spirits lifted, it was like being home (Derek wishes he was at home too!). Stopped at Bunde for our first hot chocolate of the trip and cake. Legs tired today as the afternoon took us through pretty villages and countryside.
In general we have been cycling on really good surfaces but today after our road side lunch break - sardines and one Brotchen between us - we came upon the 'sandpit road'. A mad Burgermeister had been inspired to fill in the potholes with tons of loose sand. Cycling heaven!
Our planned stop at Oldenburg looked a long way so we decided to sample the camping by the Zwischenahner Meer.
We were greeted by the proprietor who proceeded to tell us he didn't serve food, didn't have wifi, didn't give receipts and quite honestly didn't give a damp. We didn't have a beer in his bar.
We Cycled 2km to the Goldener Adler for our beer of the day (Kong Pilsner) and a delicious meal.

A day free of rain but the clouds were building as we returned to camp.

Day 4 - Friday 25th July

Holwerd to Wedderveer
77.3 miles

After yesterday's gruelling trip we didn't exactly appreciate the caroling of the local church bells throughout the night. However
woke up and the flag was limp (campsite flag that is!) - this was joyous news and raised our hopes of an easier day's cycling.
On the road by 08.15 but our optimism was soon dashed as the wind slowly strengthened and clouds built up. Followed North Sea coastal route to Lauersoog where the rain started. Derek not too impressed by my attempt to get us back on schedule. Flashing glimpses of egrets, lapwing, tern and marsh harrier did not improve his humour. Managed a brief stop for windmill picture to prove we are in Holland.

  

Having covered 41 miles by 12.15, I succumbed to pressure to stop so a quiet sandwich break was had in Groningen.

Route finding out of Groningen proved difficult but eventually we were on our way into a stiff N.E. wind again. Lightening flashes and threatening clouds finally developed into a thunderstorm forcing us to take shelter next to a bemused Dutchman.

Cycled through Winschoten looking for campsite which we didn't find. However we did find two Dutch ladies who looked after us and escorted us to a Natuurkampeerterrein. This was like camping in somebodies huge back garden but with shower facilities and a kitchen.

Unfortunately no beer of the day and we had to cook (ie reconstitute) chicken? curry.

We liked Holland a little bit more today despite the length of the ride.

Thursday 24th July

Day 3 - Stroe to Holwerd - 66.8 miles

Noooo... The wind is still blowing and the halyards are rattling.
I must remember to put my glasses on first thing in the morning when looking at the time. This morning got up, showered, and woke Derek. He was none too pleased as it was only 06.05! His humour improved after a 45 minute gap and a beautiful prepared cup of tea.

At least we were on the road by 07.45, heading towards the Afluitsdijk and our worst nightmare. A beautiful day, perfect smooth cycle track and a horrendous wind ensured a 9 mph relentless slog. This remained the pattern for the whole day.

After taking over 2 hours to cross the dyke we eventually arrived in Harlingen where coffee/tea and cake were gratefully consumed. Suitably refreshed we set forth on the next 37 miles of purgatory. No kidding! Sometimes we were reduced to 6 mph. Eventually, exhausted we cut our losses and stopped 15 miles before our planned destination opting for the delights of the campsite at Holwerd. Two beers and smoked sausages (to replenish the salt) were placed on the reception counter by the proprietor as we signed in.
We eventually strolled down to De Gouden Klok where we were treated to a delicious meat loaf voted best in the Netherlands in 2012 together with today's beer of the day ( (Wieckse Witte - a white beer).

Day 2 - Wednesday 23rd July

Ijmuiden to Den Oever/Stroe
63.3 miles
Yesterday's third beer of the day (John Smith's Smooth) meant we woke rather the worse for wear. However, a double espresso and Derek's full English breakfast soon revived us. We disembarked at 10am and soon started cycling into a stiff NE wind which continued and strengthened as the day progressed. Full sun and a temperature of over 25 degrees also added to the discomfort. Lunch at Bergen am See consisted of the local delicacy of Kibbeling (a type of fried fish).

Then onwards into the gale, through the dunes, relentlessly heading NE. After 40 miles we collapsed onto a Bloemenhut table and devoured all four of our yoghurts.

With liquid refreshments running low we eventually stopped again 5 miles short of Den Oever for a soft drink. We struggled to Den Oever only to find the campsite closed.
Weeping profusely we retraced our steps for three miles to reach the campsite of Stroe. At least the wind blew us back!
Showered and refreshed we sampled the local bar and over our evening meal were joined by Mattheus (extremely drunk Dutch man) and Florian (only slightly drunk but joint smoking German). Mattheus continued to ply us with beer whilst effing his way through the evening's conversation. His young daughter should have a splendid and varied vocabulary when she returns to school.
We eventually escaped our hosts and retired a little worse for wear and dreading the battle against the elements tomorrow as we attempt to cross the Afluitsdijk.